Winter Sewing Pattern Picks with otepotisews
Winter is here! This means a time for layering, sleeves and patterns for thick cosy materials. We invited Kathryn to share some of her favourite patterns for Winter from the Sewdirect Australia collection.
Introducing maker Kathryn Baker
A full time Chemistry and Science teacher and part time sewist living the deep South of New Zealand. I sew in between marking and planning, with school holidays being my most prolific sewing time. Everyone asks me how I sew so fast and I say – I do everything fast to try and fit as much into life as possible! I really enjoy the process of trying out new patterns and exploring new colours and fabrics. I sew mostly from patterns, but I love to hack them into my own versions. I love a fabric bargain and my family call me the remnant queen due to my ability to squeeze patterns out of less than the required yardage often found in the remnant bin or at thrift stores,
Growing up in the 80’s in a family of four children, sewing was how you got new clothes. I grew up sewing for dolls, soft toys and then eventually myself even making my school ball dresses. My own sewing gradually dropped off as it no longer became a necessity and I became busy with my own children.
I found a renewed passion for sewing after Covid (and incidentally with children now left home) when millions of new makers popped up online offering inspiration, a chance to make unique fashion, fitted my petite height correctly and fed the dopamine hit in a more ethical way than fast fashion ever could.
The online sewing community is friendly, supportive, inclusive and uplifting. While the process of sewing itself is calming, internal and reflective, I treasure the interactions I have with others who share my passion. Despite my position at the near bottom of the world in Dunedin, NZ, I have made many friends online and have even met some in real life recently. I have also got some of my workmates interested in sewing and we sometimes spend weekends sewing together at school. I also recently helped to organise the first Dunedin Frocktails which (despite stressing me out a little) came together so well and was a blast. I wore one of the newer McCalls patterns, a blazer dress in bright pink and red wool check, a homage to Dunedin’s Scottish heritage
Kathryn shares many of her makes online you can follow her on Instagram at @otepotisews
Kathryn’s Top Winter Sewing Patterns
McCall’s 8553
A classic winter dress
Pattern choice: This pattern was similar to many high street dresses and despite the simple silhouette offered a point of difference with the zip front. I chose the pdf version for this pattern as the paper copy was not yet available in NZ to make in an embroidered denim fabric I had been gifted by a fabric company.
Hacks: I chose view B (long sleeves) but added some extra width to the bottom so I could gather into the cuffs. In usual frugal style I also didn’t print the skirt pieces but created a simple gathered rectangle based on how much fabric I had left. I also added an extra belt piece at the back with dome fastenings to cinch the waist in a little.
The verdict: I absolutely love this dress and have worn it a lot so far. It is the perfect winter dress in a heavier fabric such as denim, corduroy or wool or a lovely summer dress in cotton or linen. The centre front zip needs a fabric with some stability so I wouldn’t suggest anything drapey!
McCall’s 8325
A top with unique pintuck details hackable for winter wear
I made my version in brick red cotton voile but hacked View A to have long sleeves with elastic cuffs. I love to wear it in both summer by itself and winter with a merino underneath or a cardigan over the top.
The alternating pintuck details are so fun to sew. Choose a material that will press well and is not too slippery – cotton, light linen even a light wool for winter wear. A plain, stripe or check would work well with the pintuck details but a pattern would lose them.
McCall’s 8528
Blazer wrap dress with pleats, collar or not!
This pattern immediately caught my eye for it’s unique details, the pleated skirt option was perfect for my Scottish theme for Frocktails and while I like the version with the sleeves, my thrifted fabric wouldn’t allow it so I chose the sleeveless version which I was glad of on the night to keep me cool. I am planning to wear it to work with tights, boots and a merino underneath.
On my version, before I attached the collar, I really enjoyed how the wrap sat around the neck so I plan to make the plainer view C in a different fabric. The pattern would work well with anything with structure and some drape – wool is the obvious choice but a light pin cord, linen or a tweed or stripe suiting could be fun.
New Look 6743 OR Butterick 6895
Big collar energy is still happening this winter (at least it is in NZ). They pair perfectly with a cardigan or vest. I have made both of these patterns and they offer similar features but a very different fit.
N6743 has gathers into the neckline underneath the collar so is a looser fit style. It is also a raglan sleeve style. I love how it offers a variety of closure and sleeve options. I made a mix of A sleeves and closure and View B collar with frill in a gingham linen.
B6895 has three collar options which are more pointed and the body is more fitted. The back has a yoke and a back pleat. I made view B sleeveless in a white cotton poplin but shortened it a little and added tie closures instead of buttons. I wear this one a lot as a white top is always useful in your wardrobe and even though my workmates call it my pilgrim top they also have said they love it.
Which do I prefer? I prefer the collar shape of B6895 but the raglan fit of N6743
Know Me 2016
Best dress bodice ever
Everyone has made the ME2016 and for good reason – the bodice fit is just “chefs kiss” with the curved shape and perfect bust fit. The skirt shape and unique pocket construction is a lovely feature of the original dress but it is fabric hungry if you are wanting a full length version. I had three different green linens in my stash of about 1-1.5 m each and used them to make he original dress in layers with slightly reduced sleeve volume.
I love the final outcome of this dress and while I made it for summer, it would work as a winter option in a heavy fabric such as wool or a pin cord (or just layer it up with a cardy and tights!) I also hacked the bodice into two tie up tops, by removing the back zip and cutting on the fold and adding a folded facing to the front. I made one in broderie anglaise linen and one in a liberty poplin. I love these a lot – as I said – it is the perfect bodice!
McCall’s 7908
Weekend wear overalls
While I wear dresses, skirts and pants for work, I love denim or tracksuit for the weekend. I made this pair of overalls in stretch denim a few years ago at the start of the winter holidays and took it on a road trip with me to see my children.
Overalls are tricky to fit due to needing to get the rise correct. I shortened mine after taking my measurements and I think I got them about right. The front has princess seams allowing for adjustments at the bust. I originally made mine with the sleeves but they felt too constricting and I am very happy with the sleeveless version.
I would suggest toiling before cutting into your good fabric to check the fit. Stretch Denim, corduroy, drill are all good options for a winter version.
Simplicity 3108
On-trend vest and skirt/pant combo.
I haven’t made this pattern but think it looks like such a great addition to my collection as I like all three pieces. The vest is unlined and suggests fabrics such as denim, cotton or linen. The A line skirt is panelled and pants have darts, pockets and a side zip. These pieces would also work well in a wool for a heavier winter option with the vest being able to be worn over a merino top or pair it with some big sleeve energy.
McCall’s 8563
Pyjamas – or not… Fancy pyjamas have yet to enter my wardrobe. I love the look of this pattern whether you choose to make it as pyjamas or outerwear. I am thinking of a soft floral tana lawn for ultimate lounging luxury or a soft striped linen as outerwear. I particularly like the ruffle detail on the pants and shorts pockets. The view B top collar is lovely shape and the waist elastic minimises the volume.
Simplicity 3009
The perfect jacket for big sleeves.
I love the big collar that extends out over to the shoulder line and has a square back, the welt pockets and the short loose sleeves that allow you to throw it on easily over dresses or puffy sleeve tops. Make it in a wool, a tweed, or a luxury fur as shown. The pattern is lined with two different lengths and hem shapes. I almost made this to wear with my Frocktails outfit but unfortunately ran out of time.
Shop the patterns
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Simplicity Sewing Pattern S3108 Misses’ Vest, Skirt and Trousers by American Sewing Guild -
McCall’s Sewing Pattern M8563 Misses’ Lounge Tops, Shorts and Trousers
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McCall’s Sewing Pattern M8553 Misses’ Dress with Sleeve and Length Variations
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McCall’s Sewing Pattern M8528 Misses’ Blazer Dresses
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Simplicity Sewing Pattern S3009 Misses’ Jacket In Two Lengths and Bag
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New Look Sewing Pattern N6743 Misses’ Tops -
Know Me Sewing Pattern ME2016 Misses’ Dress by Beaute’ J’adore
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McCall’s Sewing Pattern M8325 Misses’ Tops
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Butterick Sewing Pattern B6895 Misses’ Top
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McCall’s Sewing Pattern M7908 Misses’/Miss Petite Jumpsuits
