Menswear Sewing Patterns with Chris Barratt

This patten has been sewn up a few times and makes such a great casual, flowy shirt for your wardrobe. The construction of it is completely different compared to other shirts – there are no sleeves to set in!! The back yoke, front and back pieces come together to form the sleeve. Then it is finished simply by stitching some bias binding to the inside of the sleeve leaving the sleeve hems with an unfinished look. With an oversized fit and a slightly different cutting arrangement, this does require more fabric than normal, but the payoff is worth it.

With any shirt pattern that is oversized or unfitted, I usually go with a lighter, drapey fabric to get additional flow and movement. Viscose, cotton lawn, rayon, or a lightweight linen would all be great options. Perhaps even something with a geometric pattern or consistent pattern direction to make best use of the pockets cut on the bias and create additional interest with lines. 

If you need a classic jacket that you can layer and throw over any outfit, this is the pattern. Plenty of military style pockets, a removable hood, and a great semi-fitted feel to it which you can adjust to your liking with the drawstring on the inside. Note that if you make the long version of this you will need a very long zipper, which could be tricky to find if you want a perfect match with your fabric and, like me, if you need it to be a metal one. There is a lot of work in this jacket but don’t let it deter you. Take your time, do it bit by bit, and you’ll have an amazing jacket that will last you for seasons to come.

A mid to heavier weight fabric is the way to go for this pattern – it requires a bit more structure. Cotton drill, duck cloth or canvas would be great options and should have plenty of colours (or patterns) available. The construction of the upper back and the hood lends itself to a glimpse into colour blocking to add a little extra colour interest. Denim would also make a big statement jacket – just imagine all that glorious denim trailing behind you as you walk.

Matching shirt and shorts set for a holiday, poolside party or festival? This pattern has you covered. Elasticated waist shorts with two length options, and a Cuban collar shirt with long or short sleeve options is perfect for a smarter casual look.

Linen is the obvious choice for a hot summers day and there are plenty of colour and pattern options readily available. I recently started sewing with some hemp blends and these could also be perfect. A hemp and Tencel blend fabric has such a soft feel and great drape. It would boost how luxurious the finished outfit feels.

Tropical print fabrics are also a fun alternative for something bolder, maybe even with block colour facings to add a little extra thoughtfulness to the final product. The options really can be endless depending on what you need for an event or everyday use.

A staple raglan sleeve pattern is a must-have for your collection. There are a couple of different options for the neckline and a short and long sleeve version. It’s also easy enough to mix and match the necklines with the different sleeve lengths or cut your own wider neckline and finish it with a bound edge to create something slightly different. Active wear can also be sewn from this pattern, you just may need to increase the seam allowance slightly or go down a size for a more form fitting workout t-shirt. The raglan sleeve makes the construction of this t-shirt easy and suitable for beginners.

A knit fabric is required for this patten. A cotton or bamboo jersey would be a great starting point for new sewers (just be sure to stay stitch the neck edges). Knit fabric with a small amount of spandex will make for an easier fit and better range of movement. This can also be sewn with activewear fabrics – spandex, sports jersey, sport mesh, and lycra. Activewear fabrics are a bit more difficult to sew but are definitely do-able. 

There are a lot of fabric options out there for pattern combos, colour blocking or keep it simple with one colour.

If you’re after a one stop pattern for all things pyjamas – this is it. In the envelope you get two versions for a robe, a long and short sleeve option for a button up pyjama top, and shorts and long pants options. The fit of the bottoms are a nice tailored fit but still with plenty of wiggle room. Nice amount of detail in the construction of the button fly opening, but not too complicated that it starts to feel like making actual dress shorts. Having a go-to pattern for pyjamas is an essential. You can create bespoke character or pattern driven pjs sets without paying for the expensive ones in some stores.

Natural fibers are the way to go for sleepwear. Nice lightweight cottons (so many characters, patterns and colours), flannelette, linen, cotton blends, and silk are probably the most common. Using a lightweight cotton sateen will give you a lush feel without the price for silk. The pattern has options for piping too, which can really enhance your project with a contrasting colour. The robe could be taken in two directions: lightweight (as above) for the transitional months or something heavier like terry toweling for the colder winter months

A classic fitted shirt patten. This can be made with a long sleeve for a dressy shirt for work or an event or short sleeves for a more casual look. The back is sewn up of three separate pieces which when sewn together create a nicely fitted back piece. Usually I find the short sleeve length of most shirt patterns to be too long. I often remove an inch or so from the sleeve pattern piece to give me a shorter sleeve which feels a bit more modern.

Cotton fabrics are best for this pattern. With the piecing of the back, it need a bit more structure. Cotton shirting is perfect a work style shirt. Personally, some good quality quilting cottons gives you an almost endless supply of colours and patterns to pick from – be as bold as you like!

This McCalls pattern is giving off strong polo shirt vibes but with a great twist. Instead of the neck placket having a button closure, it is swapped out for a zip. The zip can be smaller and more aligned with a traditional polo shirt or it can be the full length for a full zip front open. Casual elastic waist shorts are also in the pattern envelope and not to be overlooked. These will make a great summer short either on their own or matched to the shirt.

Currently, my mind for this pattern is going to a stretch velvet – you could create something quite bold! It’s possibly a little too extra but I love it. If heading to the beach or pool, a set made from terry cloth could be perfect to throw on over your swimwear. Jersey fabrics with the multitude of patterns and colours could give a more everyday option without feeling like there needs to be a specific reason or event. 

A very functional pair of pants – or shorts! I feel like this pattern would be the perfect make for someone who does a lot of hiking/bush walking. The zip off pant legs is perfect for a cool to warm change in weather. A multitude of pockets for easy storage of a phone, headphones, or snacks. It can be made as a standalone pair of shorts without the front thigh pocket for a nice casual but slightly dressier look. The built in belt made using twill tape or webbing is such a fun detail, and negates the need for a belt. You could also have a lot of fun with contrasting colours.

Ripstop fabric is the first fabric that comes to mind, especially if making a pair that leans towards activewear. Ripstop is a bit more resistant to wear and tear, especially if you’re exploring in nature. You could have some fun with two toned pants, making the zip off legs a different but cohesive colour with the shorts.

If just making a pair for everyday use, a twill or linen could be the way to go. Once again, lots of colour and pattern options!

A baseball jersey and a relaxed pair of trousers make for a really cool combination. This shirt is such a unique take on a baseball jersey which, for me, also gives a slight nod to the kimono. This shirt has a very interesting placket with a no-show front closure.

These elasticated relaxed fit pants have so many interesting details. Attached braces, multiple zip pockets, and elasticated cuffs. You can really add or remove a feature to create the pants that suit you best.

I immediately thought of a floral sports mesh, which would be amazing, and gives a little nod to baseball. Linen or hemp blends would also be great in hot climates. Added interest can also be added by using contrast piping.

For the pants, a lightweight denim would be a fun option. With the interesting seam lines on the pants, two denim colours of the same weight could be a nice change up. Ripstop can also be used for a more activewear feel and, with the right colours, would be awesome for some more 80’s/90’s inspired creations.