Pattern Spotlight: Skill boosting patterns
Staying safe with patterns isn’t a bad thing, especially if you’re short on time or appreciate simple silhouettes, but sometimes it’s nice to push yourself to learn a new technique or try a new silhouette. I’ve rounded up five projects you could try to introduce new skills into your repertoire!
The Shirt: Vogue 8772
Shirt-making is a classic milestone in sewing as you’re creating a wardrobe staple and diving into a traditional garment with a rich history. After trying a lot of shirt patterns and styles, I’m recommending Vogue 8772 because this feels like the cream of the crop. The pattern features some great details you can work your way through with the different versions. French Seams, placket cuffs, and shirt collars are all excellent traditional skills to learn. French seams involve sewing pieces WRONG sides together first before sewing right sides together. It’s a clever method of construction you can add to lots of projects of your choice but it super helpful when the instructions remind you at every step! The classic stand collar construction will also have you practicing sharp corners and neat curves where clipping and notching is essential. Start in a stable fabric like cotton lawn then try a silk or viscose version to hone your skills further. If you’re not a shirt wearer, why not make a shirtdress? M8139 or B6843 are great options.
The Jeans: Simplicity 8516
Jeans are a great project for those looking for a slightly longer make. Mimi G’s S8516 pattern is full of interesting construction techniques, and includes enjoyable topstitching and hardware installation. You can add decorative pocket stitching, then work out any aggression hammering in the button and rivets. Plus, you’ll take pride in discovering how fly front zippers are created to sew your own polished version. There are three silhouettes to choose from – curvy, average and slim fit – so you can make your dream jeans a reality. Why not follow Mimi’s sew along videos for extra support at each step. You’ll learn how to find the perfect stretch woven fabric, use the correct needles and pick the perfect size. I am extremely lucky to have two sewing machines which means I can have one threaded up with topstitching thread, and another with regular thread for construction meaning I don’t have to keep switching threads for each round of topstitching. If you can borrow a machine from a family member or friend, I’d definitely recommend it. Nervous about creating wobbly topstitching on your first pair? Choose a matching thread colour to take the pressure off!
The Striped Breton: McCall’s 7322
Stripe matching is a great introduction to the general area of pattern matching. And there’s a definite thrill to seeing neatly aligned stripes on your finished make! There are a lot of t-shirt patterns out there, but my go to is M7322 because it’s designed for woven and jersey making it more versatile and a little looser fitting. Just size down when using jersey if you prefer a classic t-shirt fit. You’ll need to use a stripe layout which allows you to match your stripes in multiple places by lining up every underarm point of your pattern pieces on the stripes in the same way. You’re aiming to match the side seams, and also the sleeve seams. When your arms are by your sides, you’ll also see the stripes match across the body and sleeves. And if your fabric is evenly striped you can also match around part of the armhole for a fully polished finish! Keep things straightforward and start with a fabric that has evenly spaced lined in a single colour.
The Chanel-inspired jacket: Vogue 1992
A timeless tweed jacket with hand sewn details is an excellent way to learn about the art of haute couture from Vogue Patterns. Coco Chanel introduced the couture cardigan jacket in the fifties as an easy-to-wear style following Dior’s New Look. We have a number of cardigan-style patterns but V1992 has all those classic details. I made my Mum a couture tweed jacket as a present several years ago and she still wears it with pride. A jacket like this does take quite a while as there are a lot of steps, several sewn by hand but that’s part of the joy as you slow down and focus on the precision of each element.
Lingerie: Simplicity 8229
Making underwear is an exciting way to get to grips with fit and opens up a beautiful world of fabrics, closures, straps and buckles – a shopping delight! Simplicity 8229 is a beautiful bra pattern from indie pattern designer Madalynne who now has a collection of lingerie patterns with Simplicity. Learn how to choose your size and create a well-fitting bra using stretch lace, powernet and underwires. Madalynne is an expert teacher and shares helpful tips throughout her patterns plus offers video tutorials and blog posts for extra support. And as this is a two-piece pattern so you can make the perfect matching set. S8229 is available in sizes 32A – 42DD but if you’re in need of a larger cup size, keep your eyes peeled for Madalynne’s upcoming release for Simplicity which is available up to cup size H!
